Beauty Wisdom

You will see that our Purslane and Commelina Gentle Balancing Toner includes a claim that Purslane promotes the pro-aging enzyme Telomerase which protects the cells' DNA repair function. Really? So how, exactly does it do this? Telomeres are little caps at the very ends of chromosomes that protect the internal areas of chromosomes. Every cell in our bodies is constantly renewed every seven to ten years, some cells more frequently. So why then are we not exactly the same every seven to ten years? The problem is that with every replication of our DNA, some fragments of the genes that make up the chromosomes are lost. This loss of genetic materials wears down the ends of the chromosomes and leads to a shortening of the chromosomes over time. Telomeres are little caps at the ends of the chromosomes that protect the internal areas and to an extent prevent the shortening of the chromosome. Telomere shortening has been linked to the aging of cells. The progressive loss of telomeres may explain why cells can only divide a certain number of times. If the chromosomes become too short, their ability to divide is compromised. The good news is that some cells in our body have the ability to reverse telomere shortening by expressing Telomerase, an enzyme that extends the telomeres. Purslane contains this enzyme, Telomerase. This is why we say that the Purslane and Commelina Gentle Balancing Toner contains an ingredient that works at the DNA level.

Remember when we were young and a little bit of sun gave our skin that beautiful glowy 'sun-kissed' look? As if that were a good thing? Little did we know that for some of us, underneath that lovely, even, healthy glow were the future seeds of uneven, pigmented skin that would grow worse and worse as we grew older. Uneven pigmentation and dark spots are a very visible sign of aging, and probably one of the easiest signs to treat. Dark spots, age spots, liver spots, melasma, pigmentation, hyper-pigmentation - there are various names for pigmentation and the root causes can differ. Dark spots are the result of uneven and over-production of melanin. Melanin is a broad term for a group of natural pigments in the skin that give it colour. When we are young melanin (other than freckling and birth marks) is evenly spread across the skin, but as we age melanin tends to clump. Melanin might also condense where there has been trauma, such as from acne, or micro-inflammation from stress, deep in the skin layers. These traumas and inflammation surface as uneven pigmentation. Uneven or increased melanin production, resulting in melasma, might also be caused by hormonal changes including going on the pill. All skin types are susceptible to pigmentation. Fair skinned women are especially prone to age spots while women with deeper skin tones are more susceptible to pigmentation associated with acne scarring. All skin tones are susceptible to hormonal pigmentation. Evenly pigmented skin (sometimes called 'bright' skin) is universally culturally prized, even though there are no health risks associated with pigmentation. Unwanted freckles and birthmarks can be permanently removed by lasers. However, melasma which is hormonally driven, and age spots, which are caused through aging and sun exposure, even if they are treated with lasers or peels, need close, ongoing management.   SOLUTIONS The most significant, and preventable, cause of age spots is the sun. Since melanin formation is a direct response to sun exposure, protecting skin from the sun will prevent age spots forming. Always using a 50+ SPF religiously is the most important preventative treatment for age spots and hyper-pigmentation. For those age spots that have already formed, over a period of months they will eventually rise to the surface and shed. If the new, rising layers of skin cells have less clumped melanin, skin tone will improve. When we say 'fade' dark spots, what do we mean? There are ways to hasten the shedding of the age spots. One is to laser them off. Another is to use acid peels. There is also the option to reduce melanin production and to break up the melanin deposits themselves. Founder's Formula offers two products that target dark spots: our Vitamin C Serum - Wild Harvested Kakadu Plum Vitamin C Serum, and our Vitamin B3 Serum - FORTIFIED Australian Botanicals Pro-Aging Concentrate Treatment Serum . Both these serums work in complementary ways and will prevent dark spots and pigmentation from forming. They will also help manage dark spots and melasma that are already present, either alone, or in conjunction with laser treatment and/or acid peels for particularly stubborn dark spots. Wild Harvested Kakadu Plum Vitamin C Serum inhibits dark spots and hyper-pigmentation. With continued use it prevents new dark spots from forming and fades brown spots without altering normal skin pigmentation. Vitamin C works by inhibiting the enzyme tyrosinase, which helps to prevent melanin production. Not all Vitamin C serums are equal. Studies have shown that combining Ferulic Acid with Vitamin C can stabilise Vitamin C and increase Vitamin C efficacy and absorption. Founder's Formula Wild Harvested Kakadu Plum Vitamin C Serum includes Australian Finger Lime Caviar which is exceptionally high in natural ferulic acid to improve efficacy of our Kakadu Plum extract. Kakadu Plum has the highest percentage of Vitamin C of any known plant on earth. FORTIFIED Australian Botanicals Pro-Aging Concentrate Treatment Serum is fortified with Niacinamide B3 to therapeutic levels. Niacinamide is an effective intervention for managing dark spots and melasma. It works by inhibiting melanosome transfer from the cells that produce melanin to the outer layer of the skin where the pigments are visible. Australian Botanicals Pro-Aging Treatment Concentrate Serum also contains Australian Bush Lime with nine phyto-active compounds proven to support de-pigmentation, Native Orange Pearl which is rich in naturally occurring Vitamins A and C, Aniseed Myrtle with procyanidins with antioxidant activity 20 and 50 times more potent than Vitamin C and Vitamin E, and a potent anti-hyper-pigmentation active, as well as Pandanus, (Wild Pineapple) which contains enzymes Papain and Bromelain that dissolve dead skin cells and so hasten the shedding process. Pandanus is also one of the few plants to contain naturally occurring Niacinamide (B3). Use Founder's Formula Wild Harvested Kakadu Plum Vitamin C Serum underneath moisturiser and/or oils and SPF 50+ in the mornings, and Founder's Formula FORTIFIED Australian Botanicals Pro-Aging Concentrate Treatment Serum underneath moisturisers and/or oils at night, to manage and prevent hyper-pigmentation.    Some very advanced age spots could be keratoses or potentially a skin cancer so it is always wise to have a regular skin cancer scan. In Australia we have dedicated clinics that specialise in skin cancer check ups, but any medical practicioner can determine if a persistant age spot needs further investigation.   Author note: Dr Annie Holden is an anthropologist and the founder of Founder's Formula. Annie lives on the Sunshine Coast in Queensland, Australia.

The Korean 7- Skin Method is a great approach to using Founder's Formula serums and oils. It is the ideal method for giving skin the best chance to soak up and benefit from the multiple phyto-actives found in our nutrient-rich Australian Botanicals. Here's how it works: Founder's Formula 7- Skin Method 1. In the mornings, do not cleanse, simply wipe face and neck with a re-usable cotton or bamboo pad soaked in Purslane and Commelina Gentle Balancing Toner. In the evenings, massage face and neck with Macadamia Omega 7 Cleansing Oil and rinse away with water. Pat dry excess water. Using a re-usable cotton pad, apply Purslane and Commelina Gentle Balancing Toner. 2. If you are preparing for a big day or a big event, or if your face is feeling stressed or irritated, start with CALM Tasmanian Mountain Pepper Berry Serum as your first serum layer. Drop 1 or 2 drops in the palm of your hand, press hands gently together and press flat palms to face. 3. Allow to soak in (clean your teeth, lay out your clothes, light a candle, sip tea). The time it takes will depend largely on how dehydrated your skin is at the time. Very dehydrated skin will soak up serums instantly. 4. For mornings, after 1 or 2 minutes, apply Wild-Harvested Kakadu Plum Vitamin C Serum, especially if skin is pigmented or sun-damaged but also to prevent pigmentation. Repeat with a second serum layer as recommended by your facialist. At night after cleansing and toning, apply Phyto-A+ Australian Native Tobacco. Wait a few moments for it to absorb. Then apply one or two drops of Australian Botanicals Pro-Aging Treatment Concentrate Serum with B3, B5 and Hyaluronic Acid.  Again, allow a little time for each serum to fully absorb before applying the next. Layer as often (or as little) as needed to reach saturation. If your skin is already well hydrated, one or two layers may be fine. If skin is dry, use more layers, allowing a minute or two between layers. If skin around eyes is puffy, or for dark circles, apply Native River Mint Cooling Eye Serum around the eye area, include on the lids if puffy, carefully avoiding the eyes themselves, morning and night. 5. After layering serums, apply Wild Rosella Hydrating Moisturiser in the morning and Snake Vine Super Anti-Oxidant Pro-Aging Moisturiser to complete the occlusion to lock in benefits and prevent the freshly hydrated skin from 'de' hydrating. 6. Apply 1 drop of Australian Botanicals Nourishing Facial Oils for additional skin health benefits, including oil-based Vitamin E, and to complete the occlusion. Oils can penetrate moisturisers but moisturisers are less efficient at penetrating oils. Remember the key with oils, as with all Founder's Formula products, is that a little goes a long way. 7. For day time, finish with an 50+ SPF - remember it needs to be applied at least 20 minutes before sun exposure in order to give it time to form a protective barrier.   The 7- Skin Method is a Korean technique for applying serums and toners. In Korean, 'toner' translates as a 'skin', so the '7- Skin Method' translates literally as the '7- Toner Method'. The 7- Skin Method is a way to apply multiple layers of hydrating toners in 7 thin layers to thoroughly hydrate the skin. Using this method, the skin is deeply hydrated, while the multiple layers build to become an occlusive, like a moisturiser. In the original 7 Skin Method a moisturiser is not used. All  Founder's Formula serums are hydrating serums. All are created in a base of organic aloe vera and with added natural hyaluronic acid, which is soothing and hydrating. Our Pro-Aging Serums have multiple hydrating phyto-actives including native seaweed (Tasmanian kelp) with its exceptional moisturisation properties, Emu Apple, a rich hydrator, Banksia, rich in moisturising glycosides that repair and restore skin health, and Kangaroo Flower, rich in natural hydrating fatty acids. We include moisturisers and oils in the 7- Skin Method because there are beneficial phyto-actives that are only available in nature as oils. They do not dissolve into water and so are not available unless oils are included in a skin care routine. Serums (sometimes referred to as Essences), followed by oils, offer the full range of skin benefits that nature has to offer. Taking the time to love our skin is taking the time to love. Korean women completely understand the meditative power of ritual and the magic of using skin care mindfully and lovingly to create awareness and inner stillness. Applying skin care with Presence is a way of consciously bringing the power of now into our day! But, of course, many of us live busy lives and sometimes the ritual and the down-time are just not an option for every woman every day. So if time is not your friend today, remember, skin can multi-task and it is completely fine to mix serums and apply in a single step. Allow to absorb and follow with a little Australian Botanicals Nourishing Facial Oils mixed in to your preferred moisturiser - we can call it the 'Busy Woman's 2 - Skin Method'. Self-love in any language is doing what is needed in the moment.   Author note: Dr Annie Holden is an anthropologist and the founder of Founder's Formula. Annie lives on the Sunshine Coast in Queensland, Australia.

Have you ever wondered if marketing skin care to men is really only all about the packaging? I mean, most men start out by using their partner's or sister's skin care anyway. So are marketers really just re-packaging the exact same women's products to make them more appealing to men - or are men's skin care products truly different?  Let's start by considering the ways in which men's skin is actually quite different to women's: Wrinkles and Fine Lines. You may be surprised to learn that men actually develop wrinkles earlier in life and with a greater severity than do women - regardless of whether they use an SPF.  While women’s wrinkles increase sharply from around 40+ years of age, men tend to have a clinical onset of wrinkles from around 25 years of age. This is not due to their being in the sun more, or some other environmental factor, but it is due to the quite different composition of male skin – for example: Collagen Women have a much higher volume of collagen fibres in our skin, which gives us more elasticity during our younger years. But before we become too complacent - it is also the case that our collagen fibres decrease rapidly with age. Men, on the other hand, have a much lower collagen density and fibre volume in their dermis but theirs decreases more steadily over time. Both men and women, however, can benefit from Founder's Formula award-winning Phyto-A+ Australian Native Tobacco Serum. This serum has been clinically proven to stimulate collagen production at four times the rate of Vitamin A and works equally on women and on men. Skin Extensibility Women tend to have a much higher skin extensibility and distensibility (ability to swell and expand) compared to guys, but in turn, male skin has a better ability for recovery after episodes of swelling or skin expansion. Subcutaneous Hydration Subcutaneous hydration (or the amount of water held underneath the skin) is again different in men's and women’s skin. Women's skin levels of subcutaneous hydration remain stable – or even increase – over a lifetime, whereas male skin levels progressively decrease after the age of 40. Hydrated skin is key to a dewy, healthy looking skin. All Founder's Formula serums contain multi-weighted hyaluronic acid, as well as peptides and plant extracts that increase the skin's ability to hold water. Both women and men can benefit equally well from products that foster healthy hydrated cells.  Sebum Production Sebum production (oil produced by the body) can be one of the main causes of oily skin. Conversely, low sebum production is a cause of dry skin. In men's skin, the level of sebum production is higher than women's and remains on a similar level with increasing age. Women's sebum production, on the other hand, decreases over our lifetime. Using an oil cleanser such as Founder's Formula Macadamia Omega-7 Cleansing Oil, rich in Omega 7 and squalene, is an excellent way for women to daily re-introduce healthy oils back into skin. pH Lastly, a difference between male and female skin is the pH levels.  pH levels determine whether or not something is acidic or alkaline. Male skin pH level is usually below 5 pH (more acidic), whereas female skin pH levels are usually higher than 5 (more alkaline).  Purslane and Commelina Gentle Balancing Toner re-establishes healthy pH levels at 5.5. So perhaps this one product is better suited to women's skin.  At the end of the day, though, there is surprisingly little research that compares the efficacy of skin care actives on men's skin compared with women's.  Studies tend to focus on the efficacy of the ingredients where the subjects are either all male, or all female. Where studies include male and female subjects, gender differences are not reported on as a relevant variable. With more men's skin care coming on the market I think we can expect that to change - I will let you know in a future blog when it does!  

1. Oils and water don't mix. Oils dissolve oils. 2. Oils are not bad. Oils in skin are good. We don't want to strip oils when we cleanse our face. Using an oil cleanser does not strip the skin's natural healthy oils. 3. Oils are phyto-nutrient-intense. They are not isolated, synthesized chemicals produced in a vat. Using an oil-based cleanser is yet another opportunity to deliver incidental nutrition to the skin. 4. Cleansing with Macadamia Omega 7 Cleansing Oil feels calming and soothing when my skin feels dehydrated and parched, nourishing it with essential lipids including Omega 3, 6, 7 and 9 and Vitamin E. Macadamia Oil is high in Omega 7, second only to Sea Buckthorne Oil. Omega 7 encourages the development of new skin cells and increases the synthesis of elastin and collagen to keep skin strong, and reduce the appearance and onset of wrinkles. 5. Because they don't strip the skin of its natural oils, the skin is not then signalled to manufacture more oils. Oils for oily skin is one way to slow oil production. Oil cleansers help balance oil production. 6. Oils are naturally anti-inflammatory in multiple ways. 7. Oils unclog glands and so can help prevent breakouts, whiteheads and blackheads. They act like a magnet for excess sebum, debris and pollution. 8. Oils mixed with a natural emollient wash away clean and leave my skin feeling hydrated, not stripped. I've come to understand that that 'squeaky clean' feeling I used to love was a sign that my skin was stripped bare. Now I love the milky wash away experience of good, well formulated cleansing oils. 9. A little goes a long way so cleansing oils are a very affordable quality premium skin care solution. 10. Using a mixture of oils allows creators like me to blend oils that are harmonic. One oil supports another for example by preserving it, or by improving its transportation into the skin, or by acting as a partitioning agent. Blended oils are joy in a bottle.   Author note: Dr Annie Holden is an anthropologist and the founder of Founder's Formula. Annie lives on the Sunshine Coast in Queensland, Australia.      

Last week I started using a new sunscreen - the Australian brand Ultra Violette Extreme Screen - which I loved by the way! Creamy texture, dreamy coconut fragrance, and very high SPF. As the week wore on I became more and more tired and the dermatitis on my hands flared up. I did not at the time think that this might be related to my new sunscreen - but some desperate google research to uncover the cause of this latest skin reactivity resulted in this surprising discovery - yes, sunscreen can cause tiredness and dermatitis. I suffer from a salicylate intolerance which was only diagnosed a few years ago. The exact percentage of the population that is salicylate intolerant is unknown as this intolerance is under-diagnosed. I had never heard of it myself until after years of severe skin rashes I insisted on seeing a specialist and received the diagnosis. Salicylates are naturally occurring substances which occur in foods like blueberries, olives and avocados. And organic versions of these foods are higher in salicylates because salicylates are nature's own pesticide. Salicylate intolerance can manifest in many ways, For me it results in rashes and tiredness - these are the symptoms I experience if I eat too many foods high in salicylates. The tiredness stems from my liver being overloaded as it tries to rid my body of the excess salicylates. This latest outbreak, therefore, was curious because I had been very careful with my diet all week, as always, to avoid foods high in salicylates - berries, avocados, olives, spinach. It was in my search to discover any foods high in salicylates that I might have inadvertently been consuming that I stumbled on the fact that some sunscreens are also high in salicylates. Now, to be clear, the salicylates in the Ultra Violette sunscreen are not bad for the average person. Salicylic Acid (also known as Beta-hydroxy Acid, BHA) is found in many cleansers and products such as Paula's Choice 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant. While Salicylic Acid is an excellent treatment for clogged pores and acne, it is bad news for those of us with a salicylate intolerance. These ingredients can build up in our system and eventually cause problems. I decided to share my story in our blog in case there may be Founder's Formula followers who are suffering unexplained dermatitis or tiredness, and I want to suggest that maybe you might check your sunscreen. If you have an undiagnosed salicylate intolerance your sunscreen could be making you tired. I also wanted to share my story because Australian Universities have implicated salicylates in children's behavioural issues. So slathering kids in sunscreen is an excellent idea, especially in a place like Australia, but just be sure to check the ingredients first. Ingredients to avoid are homomenthyl salicylate (homosalate), ethylhexyl salicylate (octyl salicylate) and trolamine salicylate. All Founder's Formula products have been carefully formulated with a low salicylate load with the exception of those products where we explicitly state we have added Salicylic Acid (BHA). Author note: Dr Annie Holden is an anthropologist and the founder of Founder's Formula. Annie lives on the Sunshine Coast in Queensland, Australia.

When we are young, we find it hard to imagine that we will ever age. Young people see old people differently to the way old people see themselves. For me, as a sixty four year old woman who is proud of all that she has accomplished, I don't feel the need to look young. I celebrate my longevity and I am daily grateful for all that I have learned. Skin care is self care. It's not about trying to be something I am not. So 'anti-aging' doesn't make sense to me as an approach to skin care. At Founder's Formula, we call our products 'pro-aging' meaning, these are the products that support us to age well. That means plenty of hydration and repair, nourishment and support. Skin that is clear and fresh and healthy. As a girl growing up in the 1970s, I was well and truly immersed in the women's movement. We had our phases - wearing baggy overalls to hide the shape of our bodies from men as a rejection of their definition of what a woman should look like, not wearing make up to show our disdain for the patriarchy and its expectations (that was hard). But in the end we went back to sexy clothes and great make up - because we realised that in truth we did these things for ourselves, not for men. And we enjoyed them! We began also to realise that our rejection of spending time and money on skin care, clothes and make up was because these interests were trivialised by society precisely because they were women's interests! If it had been men who spent time and money on hair and make up and fashion, then these activities and pleasures would not have been so dismissed and trivialised but would instead be seen as valuable and worthwhile. My biggest 'ahha' moment through my women's studies and my participation in the feminist movement in the 1970s and since, is captured by Eleanor Roosevelt's famous words 'No one can make you feel inferior without your consent'.  When it comes to skin care, we do it for ourselves. It's not a competition; it's not a chore (well, mostly it's not a chore); it's just for us to make our skin feel good. There is however, another layer to this issue of aging that I do want to mention because it is a little more unsettling than the more straightforward question of how we women spend our time and our money and how we express ourselves creatively.  Over the years, I have heard other older women speak about feeling 'not seen' when we reach a certain age. I was never aware of this myself and I was not particularly concerned since I thought that 'not being seen' would mean not being noticed for being beautiful or young. And I figured, I wasn't concerned about that. I am happy with who I am and how I look. But when I did have the experience of 'not being seen' it was a very different experience to what I expected it would be. I was at a large party and people were mixing and chatting. Over the course of the evening not one man came up to me to speak to me, not one addressed me when they approached a small group I might be in, and not one man seemed in any way interested in me or interested in finding out anything about me. I tried to make chit chat at the food table and at the bar, but not one man had the time of day for me. There were plenty of beautiful young women around and these men (young and old) seemed to have no difficulty mingling and striking up conversations with these other younger women. Since I had gone to the party with friends I wasn't really able to leave and so I had plenty of time to reflect. I realised that it was not just that I was being ignored because I was not a potential sexual partner - that did not bother me in the least - what disturbed me was that it appeared that I was also considered uninteresting and unworthy and therefore not even worth speaking to. I was shocked to realise that it was my very humanity that was being ignored and overlooked. So, this is the back story to why we at Founder's Formula don't use the word 'anti-aging', not because aging sucks, but because some sectors of our society do not value those who age as much as they value the young and beautiful - and that is what sucks. We at Founder's Formula want to be part of redefining aging as a positive experience and as a stage in life where women grow even more interesting, not less so. All women are interesting, young and old, and all women are worthy, no matter what we look like, where we live, what we stand for or how we party.   Author note: Dr Annie Holden is an anthropologist and the founder of Founder's Formula. Annie lives on the Sunshine Coast in Queensland, Australia - (and she is a VERY interesting person.)